The best of Paris
Fashion Week AW22 /
by Mahoro Seward
Departing from what he describes as a “fascination with the utopian unisex concept of clothing”, London-based designer Jens Laugesen yesterday presented the first chapter in a design trilogy titled INRECON.
For the debut of the series, SOLARIS, he paired up with photographer and film director Jean-Francois Carly and film editor Maxim Young on a film shot in the brutalist bowels of The Rowe, a building close to the designer’s home that he witnessed being de- and reconstructed over the course of the pandemic.
The setting serves as the perfect atmosphere for bringing the collection’s garments – a conceptually minded series of artfully deconstructed tailored pieces – into relief.
Familiar garments like an oversized men’s jacket are slashed at the seams to allow for a greater range of movement, and shirts are fashioned into slope shouldered-boleros. Trench coats are spliced and reconfigured as wrap skirts, and looks are overlaid with skeletal seam lines of garments that once were. MS
INRECON/SOLARIS /
by Jens Laugesen / Jean Francois Carly / Maxim Young /
LAUNCHED @ PARIS FASHION WEEK AW 22 /
RECEIVED 4 NOMINATIONS @ LA JOLLA FASHION FILM FESTIVAL 2022 /
For AW/22, the conceptual designer starts a new trilogy under the IN RECONSTRUCTION title. Concerning the re/deconstruction process, he is refocussing his creative practice of re/deconstruction and core DNA on conceptual gender-free tailoring for all genders.
The poetic/disruptive film is the designer’s response to re-appropriating iconic generic garments such as the oversized men’s jacket by slicing seams to offer more movement and folding surplus of fabric that adapt to the body underneath.
AW 22 LOOKBOOK /
For viewing the entire collection lookbook, please click on any of the images below.
Photography Jean-Francois CARLY /
HYBRID DESIGN PROCESS /
IN RECONSTRUCTION is the designer’s response to re-appropriating iconic generic garments such as the oversize men’s jacket by slice cutting seams to offer more movement and folding surplus of fabric to generate organic folds that adapt to the body underneath.
True to his hybrid design thinking process, a generic classic 80s trenchcoat is slice-cut and turned inside out to become more feminine reversible couture-like bolero jackets and wraparound skirts.
Another re/deconstructed trenchcoat reveals seams and garment layers of the textile structure. Oversize men’s shirts are twisted and stitched to hold organic folds in place and redefine new silhouettes and proportions.
IN RECONSTRUCTION / AW 2022/23 /
A new intuitive body of 3d work developed during lockdown over a period of free-associative flow process during a 3-week project exploring direction and ideas for AW2022/23.
The designer’s hybrid design thinking and creative methodologies are applied to new garment and silhouette development catering to a diverse range of customer types.
Foud garments are appropriated and reworked organically to re/construct new ideas, proportions and garment gender for the post-pandemic customer versatile mindset mixing garments in personal silhouette outcomes.
PRE-COLLECTION
AW 2022/23 /
Classical menswear tailoring are reappropriated, re-tailored and reconstructed into new modern timeless design staples that address the 21st-century customer for versatile utilities and transformational silhouettes.
JENS LAUGESEN KEEPS THE FAITH WITH ‘IN RECONSTRUCTION’ /
by Cyana Madsen
Danish designer Jens Laugesen sees hope in the darkness with the first presentation from his conceptual new design trilogy. Where others see dystopia and despair, Jens Laugesen has chosen hope. “It is time to find humanity in even the darkest hours,” he emphasises, “and I do feel art is an important part of this.” His A/W 22 collection, launching on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, reflects this.
Titled INRECON 01 / SOLARIS, it will be the first part of the IN RECONSTRUCTION trilogy rolled out over several seasons. Speaking to Laugesen about the collection, it is difficult not to get swept away by the magnitude of the concepts behind the collection; he cites filmmaker Andrei Tarkovsky, the early 20th century Futurism movement, and metamodernism among his influences.
Artwork Erika Trotzig
JENS LAUGESEN X
ERIKA TROTZIG
ART COLLABORATION /
A first art collaboration with Swedish Artist Erika Trotzig features in the lookbook and INRECON / SOLARIS film collaboration.
Erika Trotzig is a London based Swedish artist working with sculpture. Her un-heroic and un-monumental, fragmentary work is featured in the AW22 shoot and film set design on location as assembled structures.
The installation pieces combines Erikas assembled frame structures with the designer’s signature re/deconstructed tailored jacket seam structure.
SUPPORTED by /
LONDON FASHION WEEK / CLEARPAY /
DANISH ARTS FOUNDATION / STATENS KUNSTFOND /
SAGA FURS / S.N.S. HERNING / RHANDERS / GORILLA EDITORS /
INRECON/SOLARIS is filmed on location inside THE ROWE in construction building site with special thanks to /
THE ROWE / https://therowe.london
FRASERS PROPERTY / BAM CONSTRUCTION /
LFW interview with journalist Steve Salter.
CREDITS/
Creative Director / Jens Laugesen /
Film Director / Photography / Jean-Francois Carly /
Film Editor / Maxim Young / Gorilla Editors /
Director of Photography / Cameraman / Dan Berens /
Film Colourist / Alan Mahon / Gorilla Editors / Fashion Film Colour /
Talent / Ivy @ Select Model Management / Kiri @ Supa Management /
Casting / Camilla Bigler / Bigler-Beadsworth Creative Curation /
Sound Design / Composition / Gustave Robic /
Film Hair/MUA / Kentaro Kondo / Rumi Kagotani /
Look-book Hair/MUA / Dawn Ray / Mai Sato /
Look Book Film Editor Biki Gurung / Gorilla Editors /
Look-book Video Camera / Claudia Ramos /
Assistant Editor / Caden Steed / Gorilla Editors /
Creative Director Assistants / Cristina Iovanescu / Robin Hubert /
Film Video Assistant / Claudia Ramos /
Styling Assistant / Papharda Jindawuthiku /
Fine Art / Erika Trotzig /
Photography Jean-Francois CARLY /
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