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The best of Paris

Fashion Week AW22 /

by Mahoro Seward

Departing from what he describes as a “fascination with the utopian unisex concept of clothing”, London-based designer Jens Laugesen Jens Laugesen yesterday presented the first chapter in a design trilogy titled INRECON.

For the debut of the series, SOLARIS, he paired up with photographer and film director Jean-Francois Carly and film editor Maxim Young on a film shot in the brutalist bowels of The Rowe, a building close to the designer’s home that he witnessed being de- and reconstructed over the course of the pandemic.

The setting serves as the perfect atmosphere for bringing the collection’s garments – a conceptually minded series of artfully deconstructed tailored pieces – into relief.

Familiar garments like an oversized men’s jacket are slashed at the seams to allow for a greater range of movement, and shirts are fashioned into slope shouldered-boleros. Trench coats are spliced and reconfigured as wrap skirts, and looks are overlaid with skeletal seam lines of garments that once were. MS

JENS LAUGESEN KEEPS THE FAITH WITH ‘IN RECONSTRUCTION’ /

by Cyana Madsen

Danish designer Jens Laugesen sees hope in the darkness with the first presentation from his conceptual new design trilogy. Where others see dystopia and despair, Jens Laugesen has chosen hope. “It is time to find humanity in even the darkest hours,” he emphasises, “and I do feel art is an important part of this.” His A/W 22 collection, launching on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, reflects this.

Titled INRECON 01 / SOLARIS, it will be the first part of the IN RECONSTRUCTION trilogy rolled out over several seasons. Speaking to Laugesen about the collection, it is difficult not to get swept away by the magnitude of the concepts behind the collection; he cites filmmaker Andrei Tarkovsky, the early 20th-century Futurism movement and metamodernism among his influences.

 

HYreCON TRILOGY / 2018021

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SIRIN GALLERY / 

Running in parallel of Copenhagen Fashion Week, SIRIN Gallery will showcase the GENESIS. The film is a poetic visual analogy that merges the androgynous philosophical design ideas that lie behind Jens Laugesen’s hybrid design language together with the avant-garde mirror -reflective vision of art photographer Henriette Sabroe Ebbesen.

 

” the early 00s’ hottest designer is making a 2018 comeback …

After a 10-year hiatus, Danish-born, London-based design talent Jens Laugesen relaunches his eponymous label for autumn/winter 18 “

by Steve Salter / i-D Magazine

THE RETURN OF

JENS LAUGESEN /

/ /   The Central Saint Martins graduate took a ten-year break, only to come back with a clearer aesthetic, a stronger creative message, and a commercially viable offering. During this hiatus, Laugesen spent time at Calvin Klein under Francisco Costa and taught fashion design in Paris at the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture  / /

by Pierre M Pele for DANSK /

”   He settled on several pieces: a tuxedo jacket, athletic leggings, deconstructed sweaters, and shirts. Laugesen’s trademark tux jacket gained acute angular cut-outs at the back, like tailored wings; the knits acquired greater tactility through a raised wool weave; shirts had prominent pie-crust collars and extra-long sleeves, and leggings earned a set of racing stripes in neutral colors  “

ANDAM AWARD

/ /   Jens Laugesen is the first London based designer to have won both the new generation and the ANDAM award from the French  / /

THE INDEPENDENT MAGAZINE

” Jens Laugesen is the first London based designer to have won both the new generation and the ANDAM award from the French “

THE INDEPENDENT MAGAZINE

FUTURE CLASSICS

/ /    In the hands of today’s designers, wardrobe staples like the trench, the loafer, the blazer are getting a radical 21st-century makeover … 

Never having been the kind of designer who floats from one inspiration to another, Laugesen has a more thoughtful methodology that embraces the slow-burn evolution of honing a signature to create your own vocabulary of new classics    / /

THE INDEPENDENT, Iain R Webb

GROUND ZERO /

/ / Jens Laugesen called his powerful collection Ground Zero and sent it out to a harsh drumbeat. Laugesen said backstage that the show was about reconstruction, after so much distressed fashion, and it caught the mix of the military and athletic with a sluttish elegance  / /

INTERNATIONAL HERALD TRIBUNE, Suzy Menkes.

HOT AND DANISH

/ /  One of the slickest performances during last London Fashion Week came from Jens Laugesen  / /

THE TIMES, Lisa Armstrong

WANT TO KNOW MORE  /

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